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Fez – an Oriental Bazaar |
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The city has a unique destiny, since it has been founded twice. The city of Fez is divided by the river of the same name Fez into the old city Fez-al-Bali and the new city Fez-al-Jadid. As soon as a stranger passes through the gate Bab Boujloud, the main entrance to Fez-al-Bali and gets to the historical center of Fez, he founds himself in the stories of “One Thousand and One Nights” – in the Islam-Arabic Middle Ages. The gate skillfully faced with yellow and blue tile was built in 1913 in the Moresque style. Once they were meant for solemn ridings of the sultan, and now a noisy multi-colored crowd of people is pouring forth under the splendid ornate central arc. On the whole, Fez is one of the biggest medieval cities of our time. Its location is somewhat isolated. It has approximately 9400 streets and lanes, full of restaurants, small workshops and mosques. Therefore its guests run the risk of getting lost. Thousands of people and donkeys dash about in the tangled streets of the old city. Fez-al-Bali's appearance is almost unchanged. Streets and districts are divided according to their handicrafts. Endless rows of counters full of shoes, crockery and brocade are stretched out on both sides of the street… Jewelry rows resemble the magic cave from the fairy tale “Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves”: golden bracelets, necklaces, rings and beads are hanging like bundles of bagels; aisles are full of engraved silver-ware: expensive daggers, cigar-holders and hookahs are hanging on the walls… Grain traders appear at first, and then you see masters of brass, gold and copper works. After them you shall come across badly smelling leather district where furs and leather are being processed. By the way, leather has been processed in Fez for more than 1000 years! During this period of time dozens of generations of tanners have imparted their secrets of leather tanning, finishing and dyeing to each other. Pieces of leather are tanned and dyed in stone vats with hands and feet; then they are laid in the sun for drying. It is remarkable that Fez craftsmen process leather according to the old methods, without applying acids, alkali and other chemical substances. In fact the process consists of several steps and requires a more detailed overview, since this work is captivating, and it creates this very special coloring based on worship and observance of old traditions briefly described below. Preliminarily processed skins are put in vats filled with special solution standing in the open air. After staying in these vats for about 24 hours the skins are put in other vats with a higher concentration of tanning agents, then in the next vats. This process goes on for several days. After that skins are piled in order to distribute the tanning agents more evenly. After that come the processes of ablution, pressing and smoothing. And only afterwards skins are dried, and finally we can see the best in the world babouches (backless leather shoes) on the Fez counters. The main place of interest and the symbol of former significance of Fez has become the Karawin Mosque, situated in the old city, at the same time being one of the oldest universities in the world. The area of its basement makes up three hectares, fact that makes it the biggest mosque in the North Africa. Approximately 22 000 of believers may gather among its 270 columns of 16 wonderful naves. After 1956 when Morocco gained its independence, women obtained the right to study here; however, non-Moslem visitors are not allowed to enter this holy place. The university is still famous for its good education; and it is here that many Moroccan men of politics have received their education. Nowadays, young people from Algeria, Sudan and Lebanon come to study here. One of the city districts (Zavia) houses the mausoleum of the city founder. There is a memorial table with a hole in its wall. Faithful Moslems thrust their arms in the hole. Thus, they believe that they communicate with the soul of the saint. Crooked narrow streets of Fez medina (the ancient inner part of the city), fountains in inner yards, bazaar noises are constituent parts of an incomparable picture which opens to us a window to an entirely different mysterious world. In the evening, when the mountain wind brings long-awaited coolness, people fill the streets of Fez medina. We, the guests of Fez medina, are also attracted by the sultan’s palace, various exotic stores, spicy smells, Andalusian music sounding in coffee houses. It is amusing that the goods which are living essentials in Fez medina, turn into souvenirs in the European part of Fez. The old part of the city Fez - medina is surrounded by 25 kilometers long city walls with a series of interesting and beautiful gates. In the new city Fez-al-Jadid we recommend you to visit the Dar-al-Mohsen and the Great Mosque. A greater coloring is added by the national clothes – long burnous, fez and white taper babouches. The citizens of Fez have their special character, formed due to blending of different cultures and traditions. It may probably be characterized in the following way: the natives of Spain imparted refinement to it, the Arabs – nobility, the Berbers – tolerance and the Jews – cunning. Situated among round hills, the megalopolis of Fez is surrounded by splendid green olive-woods and fruit gardens. If you go up the road to the North, you shall admire a wonderful view of the city, in a mysterious manner combing tangled street labyrinths of the old city and the new Fez with its modern districts. The best way to see the beauty of this ancient city with your eyes, to taste delicious honey cakes, roasted nuts and kebab, to realize the harmony of this multi-natured city is to visit it. In spring when the desert winds blow it may be too hot, and the period from November to January is the rainy season. Do you want to smell the exciting dope of an ancient medieval Oriental city, to make real one of the Oriental stories from books of your childhood? Then, you should visit Fez and let yourself be captured by the amazing atmosphere! |
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